Koyuk (Mile 788) - Golovin (Mile 858)

Ryan and Daniel had an epic sea crossing, complete with a can of Coke, calm winds, and only a few “cracks” in the ice (yeah, I could have gone my entire life without seeing that picture. No thank you to the sea ice, and no, no thank you to giant pressure cracks in said sea ice).  We haven’t yet talked about it, but I’m pretty sure it was a life changing experience for Ryan. (I’m sure I’m being dramatic, but I really didn’t care for this part of the course and am happy it went well, was *gasp* fun, and now we can move a little closer to land).

Little Mountain Cabin, right before the big sea ice crossing

Ryan arrived to another checkpoint (#18, Mile 788) without the mailed drop box…apparently, Koyuk hasn’t received mail in 5 months!!  Not sure where this smorgasbord came from, but it was the well-earned dinner for a successful sea ice crossing :-)

They shoveled some food in their mouths and hit the hay, planning on checking out the grocery store in the morning.  For not having dropped supplies they did okay, cooking up to most gigantic breakfast imaginable (in a school break room kitchen with limited supplies no less!). 

Ryan got to FaceTime his parents while frying bacon, and catch up with Georgie when I got out of class.  We strategized about where there may or may not be shelter along the way, updated weather, etc.  They guys changed batteries in their trackers, which turned out to be for not (at least for Daniel)....note that despite the tracker information, the two have traveled together for days, yesterday being no exception.

The trek to Elim was pretty uneventful, other than a lot of wind and “wasting a ton of time looking at the Lights”...can you blame them?!?

They guys ended up having to make the entire trek to Elim (there was thought of stopping at a shelter cabin but that turned out to be a weather station), which wasn’t terrible because the wind turned largely to their backs and because the trail was bad fast. 

Ryan informed me this morning that they got in their best day of sled riding...not by the looks of it though ;-) I’m hoping Kari, Faye, Jeff, or anyone else who’s experienced such joy can contribute a video of said sled riding activity in the comments as evidence for just what a blast sled riding is.  I told Ryan this morning I wanted a video of him sled riding today, but wearing a dinosaur costume and screaming “WeeeeeWhhhhhoooo!!”.  Make it happen, Wanless!

The guys got to Elim (Mile 830.5) about 12:45am AKDT, slept, and cooked/consumed another big breakfast…I’m not exactly sure where the food came from, but they're certainly upping the random factor…

(double sausage Eggo waffle sandwich and eggs.....with roast beef?)

Bad news is the winds have picked up….25-30mph steady. The terrain sounds like a little mix of everything. Good news is USPS tracking tells me drop supplies made it to Golovin, the next stop on their journey.  Checkpoint #20, Mile 859, in Golovin appears to have post office (fingers crossed), store, and hopefully a place for them to crash.  I just got off the phone with Principal Alan, the wonderful POC for the village, and apparently the school does not have permission to accept visitors, but they do have their drop boxes and a BnB hook up. Worst case, they soldier on the 15 miles to White Mountain with fresh Reese's Pieces at their disposal (barf!). But here's hoping Frank (the other wonderful local contact) can find them a place for a few hours of shut eye. The should arrive in Golovin by 9-9:30 AKDT, and regardless of where they sleep, wake up to less wind.  Next up, White Mountain (with a little sea crossing in between…)!

It's Sea Crossing Time!

I have no new pictures, but this is of Daniel coming into Unalakleet, so somewhat the sea-area travel looks like...maybe. I don't know. I've never been 😎

Last we left Ryan, we were operating with no tracker and only sparse inReach communication. He and Daniel stayed the night at the Foothills Cabin (23.5 miles from Unalakleet)....sounds like it was too warm and wonderful to pass up. Plus, they encountered some skiers heading south for fun, and I think enjoyed the company of new friends. The guys got moving in the morning, about the same time their trackers finally started cooperating, (roughly 9am yesterday morning, 3/20). Ryan and Daniel arrived at Shaktoolik 2pm ish...not arriving? His mailed drop box of supplies (turns out only two out of the four have actually shown up, but having just heard this, I'm imagining it was more of an annoyance than anything else). He indicated there were fellow racers boxes to raid, as well as a store to buy goods. It cracks me up, but he was jazzed that he could get a bag of chips. Like, walk across Alaska and all you get is this amazing...bag of chips. To each his own… 

We chatted for a bit via a very frustrating sat text chain (picture me answering a text only to get the same text two more times, and then three other texts about other things, and then circling back to the text I answered 18 texts ago). I think he understood me when I relayed sad basketball news, happy stories from a visit with the Haaks (sidenote: thank you so much to the Haaks for allowing me to ruin their long weekend of fun with constant chatter about this race, etc. Y’all’s company is always appreciated, but even more so this weekend. And you make good Ahi tuna), and directions on how to leave Shaktoolik in the right direction (thanks Troy and Stick for the navigational pro tips!!). 

Hi Haaks!

After a bit of back-and-forth on how to attack the next couple legs, the guys decided to get a good rest at the checkpoint, wait for the wind to transition down from “dangerous” to “sustained”, and get up early for an all day push to Koyuk (Checkpoint #19, Mile 788) by way of a short stint at Little Mountain Cabin (Mile 759). The decision might’ve had something to do with the school kids that regularly would be arriving early were having a remote learning day because they were stuck in Anchorage and couldn’t fly home. All night and morning with no little bodies making big noises. Score!

He texted it was going to be a great day. Apparently, great day = less wind and a Pop Tart for breakfast (presumably brown sugar, because frosted strawberry would’ve been just a good day). The guys left for Little Mountain Cabin at 4:20am, arriving roughly five hours later. We exchanged a few messages, where he indicated it was "an amazing walk", the cabin was "super cool," and they were leaving in a few minutes, but had a fire going and drinking a cup of coffee....I was happy to see the stop only lasted 2 hours and Ryan didn't attempt to establish residency like I felt he might be compelled to do.

Next up is the big sea ice crossing of Norton Bay. Sure, they’ve been walking on ice for a lot of the race, but that’s little river ice. We're now getting into big scary sea ice.

In 2020, this is where the race ended for most 1000 Mile participants, as a storm caused the sea to swell over the ice. Only the lead three bikers, who had already crossed the bay prior to the storm, were able to carry on to Nome.  This year's winner, Petr Inman, was among those lead three. If you’ve been following the race up until now you’ll recognize all of the other eight names…Beat leads the 1000 on foot (currently Mile 883), Asbjorn just had to scratch in Shaktoolik due to frostbite, and the 6-Pack finished a few days ago with just about the biggest smiles you could imagine!

Former member of the ITI Throuple, Chris, made the crossing in about 13 1/2 hours. So keep that time in mind if you’re wondering how things are going. (That said, a lot of the variables are different… the weather, the amount of rest, typical pace, etc. But, a reference marker for sure). Just an FYI as I look at Ryan's tracker....you will see they racers are all set right of the red Iditarod Trail.  They are not lost, listing, or lollygagging.  This is the trail that was broken for the snow machines, sled dogs, and ITI racers, and they're on the right track!

Screenshot on the right is of Beat's track to show what the "right" way will look like

Fingers crossed the wind continues to be less of a factor (currently blowing N/NW 6-10mph), there are no earthquakes or sea swells, and that maybe a few Pop Tarts made their way into the sled, ensure the great day continues ;-)

And now I've learned more about Pop Tart humor than I ever cared to...

 

(probably what any Pop Tart tastes like after 21 days of nothing but Reese's Pieces, beef jerky, and a large pepperoni pizza)

Pizza Me!

Ryan has passed 700 miles in his journey to Nome!  After a great stop in Kaltag, the ITI Throuple decided to spend a little time apart (absence makes the heart grow fonder and stuff...).  Sounded like Ryan used the opportunity to take in the scenery and change up his pace a bit.  

The 76 mile trek from Kaltag to Unalakleet had two shelter cabins to allow for a bit of respite, 35 miles and 15 miles apart.  Ryan enjoyed some hot chocolate in solitude at Tripod Flats and then caught up with Daniel at the second.  

The two pushed on to Unalakleet, with a slice of pizza dangling in front of them for motivation.  We did a bit of interneting and discovered while Peace on Earth Pizza was wonderful enough to host racers 24 hrs./day, the kitchen would only be open until 8pm. Luckily, they took orders over the phone and I was able to secure a large pepperoni and large meat lovers pizza (for $78!!)...and because they were so busy and the guys so fast, they ended up beating the pizza to the table by 7 minutes.  From the homemade dough, to the views and fantastic owners, I believe it was worth every penny!  

This morning I got a text that Ryan was invited to the Peace on Earth Pizza owners' house for breakfast and it looked equally as delicious.  

John Haak and I called Ryan while on a run in Sturgis (in shorts no less!) and got to chat very briefly while he packed up his sled.  The plan was to put in 25 miles to the Foothills shelter cabin, rest for a bit before finishing up the leg at Checkpoint #17, Shaktoolik (mile 745.5).  The weather isn't great (picture -10s with 30-40mph headwinds) and this begins a very exposed part of the journey.  Last night, fellow racer and only remaining skier, Asbjorn, had to resign from the race due to frostbite.  Three rookie dog sled mushers and their teams had to be rescued north of the guys near White Mountain.  Ground storm got the best of them.  Fingers crossed the weather continues to improve as they make their way north to the Norton Bay crossing (like, they cross by crossing over the actual bay!)...temps are allegedly going to rise and the winds die down.  Fingers crossed!

I know his tracker is showing he's still at Unalakleet, and I guess that is a possibility (maybe waiting until the winds get a bit better tonight?)...but the fact that he's not texting/posting on social media and that the ITI Throuple is showing as all still there, makes me think this is a tracker issue and not a lack of motivation issue ;-)  I've sent a message to his inReach and I'll update as soon as I catch word as to what they're up to.  In the meantime, Happy Saturday everyone!

What a Difference a Day Makes

Galena -> Nulato -> Kaltag

The ITI Throuple left Galena for more Yukon River time bright and early Tuesday morning. Yayyyyy.  The Throuple marched most of the day about a 1/4 mile apart because (my impression) everyone just needed to get that section done and recognized they weren’t going to be the best of company.

I would say of all the inReach texting we’ve done, this was the lowest I have witnessed him. The river was massive, at times drifted with snow, with no wildlife to be had (if you know Ryan, you know playing animal eye spy is an absolute favorite past time). I lied. He did mention some ravens who would buzz by to see what was going on before determining nothing was going on, save a couple crazy bipedal mammals marching around for no discernible purpose. Add on the fact that this was Day 3 of long 50 mile pushes, and I think it was just mentally and physically a lot. 

All of this was not helped by the fact that when they got to the village around 9:30pm they couldn’t find Brother Bob and the Catholic Church, the POC at the Checkpoint, so they got a nice little tour of Galena…bonus miles! 😬  The day ended at Mile 593.7.

Good news, for George and me at least, is that we were asleep and missed all the texts during this part of Ryan’s journey.  The other piece of good news is that I could happily relay he had a short 37 mile day to Kaltag, where encouragingly, fellow racers had been posting very happily about their experiences at the school gymnasium checkpoint. Oh, that and I could say with this “short” push, they could be done. with. the. Yukon. 

Let me tell you. What a difference a day makes. The weather was cold. The snow was a bit "sticky".  None of that mattered because they hit the 600 mile milestone, the calmish wind was at their back, and they were hours away from no more Yukon River.  The text exchange as they rolled into Kaltag was night and day different from the previous evening.  Positive vibes only.

Apparently after 629 miles this is your "elated" face.

We exchanged some actual texts in the evening and scored a FaceTime in the morning (which was just largely of the school gym's ceiling...he was multitasking, seeing George while packing up his sled).  He relayed that the Throuple was likely to consciously uncouple, as priorities were shifting...some needed to double time for things like work, while others seemed to be in no real hurry. Some wanted to take full advantage of the upcoming cabins and pizza stop in Unalakleet (read: full pie, growler of beer, live music), others wanted to get 'er done.  Sounds like the breakup was mutual and ended on good terms...they just realized while they cared a lot for each other, they were each at different places in their lives and it was probably best to go their separate ways.  Or something like that... ;-)

Breakfast of champions...1) Who taught him to make oatmeal like that?!?! 2) Any guesses what that Capri Sun cost?? ;-)

Ryan shot some hoops in honor of March Madness and took off midday.  It was 18 miles to the Tripod Flats Cabin and another 37 to Old Woman Cabin.  Tripod Flats was "amazing" and he stopped for a short hot chocolate break before sauntering on.  He got to Old Woman Cabin shortly before midnight last night and indicated a 5hr. nap was in his future.  Plan is to knock out the remaining 35 miles to Unalakleet (Checkpoint #16, Mile 705) today and then live the pizza life he was destined for (Peace on Earth Pizza is at the top of his ITI bucket list).

Can't wait to share pictures of the happy guy in what I know will be his happy place. 

$13 Gatorade in Galena

Evening y'all!  Real world and a job gets in the way sometimes...but know Ryan is still cruising and loving (most of) the trek!

The ITI Throuple is still intact, traveling 50 miles from Ruby to the village of Galena (Checkpoint #13, Mile 543.7), and arriving at 3pm AKST.  Pro tip: the tracker will not update time for Daylight Savings, so know that the time listed is an hour behind.  Ryan mentioned it got down to -30 on the Yukon River, which is "YUGE!"  He said it's so big they saw the tail lights of a snowmobile for 45 minutes!

This picture has two tells indicating it got cold: breaking out the Cold Avenger and use of the "Oh Shit" jacket.  He knew it was coming out one of these days and it's appearance with no complaining makes me think it worked well!

Upon arrival, Chris, Dan, and Ryan hit up the grocery store and coffee shop that served wraps (I asked for a pic of said wrap like the inner hipster in me that wants to document their meal for all the world...he did not accommodate). They did score some $13 Gatorade.

I didn't have the heart to ask what the butterscotch puddin' cup cost...

The guys rested up at Alexander Lake BnB, where mailed supplies were waiting for them.  They stuffed their faces and got good sleep.  Ryan was also able to pass along his NCAA bracket pics (Zags for the win, Wisconsin losing in the Elite 8).  They got an early start, which I'm going to attribute to a ton of quality shut eye ;-)

Next up is another 50 mile push to Nulato (anyone else seeing Nutella every time they see this?!?!), Checkpoint #14, Mile 576.  There's a small village, Koyukuk, 37 miles from Galena, but it appears they didn't stop...another sign I'm choosing to believe things are going well.  I just received an inReach message from him that it was a cold morning, but nice afternoon...I'd say given pace in the 3.0mph range!  15 miles to Nulato!

Side note: Petr Inman, the lead biker is minutes from finishing and almost beat all the dogs to Nome (two teams in so far!). Lead/only skier, the master Asbjorn, is at Mile 695, and lead foot is (of course) Beat Jegerlehner (Mile 671).  Keep crushing it gents, do good work!

Hitting the Yukon!

Ryan arrived in Ruby (Mile 495ish) last night about 9pm AKST...to a bed and breakfast throwing a birthday party.  Oddly enough, when friend Sam and I were talking about the much needed/deserved rest at Ruby, he proclaimed, "Ruby's going to be a party!"  Little did we know how clairvoyant he is...

I think the birthday party was a good thing in terms of something new and different and fixate on...I think the birthday party was not a good thing in terms of rest, recovery, and getting laundry/all the things dried out.  At the end of the day, it was a permanent structure out of the wind, with power and a hot shower....exactly what you'd hope $200/night would get you 😬 But there was breakfast with a dog sled legend! (Fun fact, when Meggie (sister), Katie (best friend), and I did our dog sled excursion in 2020, we scored the mushers lottery and had an afternoon with DeeDee Jonrowe).

I was able to chat with Ryan briefly on the phone, as well as download some of his pictures.  I think the highlights basically include:

- "So, 50 miles to Galena?...but a tailwind, right?"

- "Your feet doing okay? Do they hurt?"  "Not more than everything else..."

- Strategy for relaying daily mileage.

- Lectures about how to track the dog race (yup, not interested haha)

- "You sleeping?"  (1:58am CST)

- Haven't come close to needing the "oh shit" jacket, but he recognizes his days are numbered 😂

-"Did the drifts get any better?" "Did you see my pictures?"  "So...not really." (again, 1:58am)

The plan is to stick together as a throuple as long as they can.  Next up is Galena (Checkpoint #13, Mile 543.7), with a shelter at Mile 511 if they need it (not the plan unless it's miserable out).  I believe the winds have died down, and what's left will be a tailwind.  The race continues to thin out and spread out...foot leader Beat is putting on a clinic...but so too was Joshua Brown until he feel ill at Galena.  Hoping he can rebound soon..maybe take advantage of Ryan's effervescent attitude?? 

More from me soon...including the repeatedly promised YouTube videos!
Em 

Stone's Throw to Ruby!

Updates! I've got updates!  Sort of... (and no new pictures, so when in doubt, cute dog pics).

FIRST OFF: RYAN IS OVER HALF WAY TO NOME!!!

What I would have posted Friday had I not got busy (...doing...IDK, things?  I remember thinking I'd post later after______...and then I didn't post):

Ryan was quite chatty Thursday night/Friday morning (as chatty as one can be when texting on a 7 minute delay with no chance of emojis, gifs, or pictures, and operating on a 2x2 in screen 😉 Sounded like they arrived at Cripple and were allowed to stay in the tent, which I wasn’t sure about given the three people who arrived when the dogs started coming through only stayed for 20 min, 1hr., and 40 minutes, respectively.  The guy who came before the dogs were in the area stayed 7 hrs. so this was promising. 

(speaking of snoozing...)

And I quote, “of course, when we get here so do all the dogs”.  My guess is that the dog sled teams are less “awesome” now.  Good news: lots of little paws will tamp down the snow, which sounds to be drifting quite a lot.  Bad news that there were a lot of teams coming through.  Based on nothing other than my ignorant self looking at times on a spreadsheet for a sport I don't understand, I think they should have encountered ~22 teams, with ~8 straggling in behind them.  We talked a bit about current events, but I’d welcome anything you’d like/think I should bring up...I told him updates on the slow going dog race, Russia/Ukraine is still a thing, MLB lockout is over.  He got word of Sam’s win and Mark & Judy’s trek to be there.  The plan was to sleep until 4am and try and go until the shelter cabin that I think is at mile 460 (I’m hoping he got confirmation that my assumption based on the length of other racers’ stops there was correct...I was very clear to underscore I received no such confirmation).  I’ve heard the wind should die down so 🤞🏻  It seems as though they left 8 minutes late, but I’ll allow it😉...lots of stuff to shove back in those sleds!

What I would have posted earlier today had I not scrambled to beat a rapidly thawing trail conditions in Sturgis and then drive back to Sioux Falls (Spring Break is ending...wahhhhhhhh):

I woke up at 2:30am to a series of texts from Ryan looking for the "cabin" supposedly at Mile 460.  Earlier in the evening he offered up that the cabin was actually a mining camp, so I had some confidence that they talked to maybe a musher and got intel there was in fact "shelter".  Around 11pm AKST, I got a message asking if they were close...then another...hen another stating they were cold, tired, and abandoning their cabin/mining camp dreams.  Bummer dude.  Good news is that the straight(ish) north shot to Ruby (30 miles from their bivy spot) is apparently on an old road that's fairly packed down.  Given today's speeds (whoop, whoop, I saw mphs in the 3's!!), I think his prediction for an "easier day" is coming to fruition 🙌).

At the time of this writing, he's 7.5 miles from Ruby (Checkpoint #12, Mile 494.5).  Ruby should be a good stop...food, sleep, LAUNDRY, wait for the wind to die down and switch to a tailwind, etc.  I'll try and post an update when I *hopefully* talk with him tonight/tomorrow.  Maybe I'll entice him by saying George wants to speak with him...

(Daaaaaaad....)