ITI 2025 Day 21: Topkok (905) to Hopefully NOME (949.6)

Follow @itialaska for general race updates, itidiaries.blogspot.com for Ryan updates

TL; DR: Get’er done.

Ryan’s ride (all times in AKST):

*Arrived at Topkok (905) @ 10:47p, departed @7:28a

*Arrived at Safety Roadhouse (927.6) @11:40a, departed @12:40p

*22 fast miles (nice plowed road into town for last 12 miles!) to the FINISH!!

Torn between where to spend the night when leaving White Mtn, Ryan arrived at Topkok and sent a message, “I was gonna head to the other cabin, but this one is pretty nice.”  It checked all the boxes: 1) save a few minutes with some very “happy” snowmobilers, head the place all to himself, 2) it was close enough to still finish in the daylight, and 3) had plenty of wood for a good fire.  Let’s hope it was also because of the reading material ;-) I found out this morning that we’re apparently members of the Nome Kennel Club who stocks the cabin, so Ryan felt like he should stay in “his own cabin” haha.

Dear friend Carol sleuthed for us, confirming the Roadhouse would be serving food 10a-10p, so Ryan didn’t have to kill much time drinking coffee in his sleeping back.  He zipped over to Safety for a burger, beer, and a shot, reporting he was “drinking alone” despite five others there ha! 

There’s a great plowed road for 12 of the last 22 miles into Nome this year, so it should be a quick pedal to the beautiful burl arch!

Pictures are of his time with Frank (reindeer stir fry and stew!), inside of Old Woman, blood moon. Video is Topkok last year.

What Say You Ryan?

Day 20: Favorite shelter cabin….

1. Tripod Flats (656)

2. **Old Woman (672) - It’s quintessential Alaska with so much history (Susan Butcher)

3. Topkok (905)

4. Safety Roadhouse (927)

Day 21: When I say Nome, you say….

1. “I just really think about getting a pizza”

2. “That was easy”

3. “Anyone want to buy a bike?”

4. “Each year it should get easier. Each year it does not.”

ITI 2025 Day 20: Golovin (864) to Hopefully Topkok (905

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TL; DR: Now, no need to rush this…

Ryan’s ride (all times in AKST):

*Arrived Golovin (864) @ 8:30p, departed 8:50a

*Arrived White Mtn (879.7) @1:03p, departed 2:26p

*Congrats to fellow SD rider Perry on his 1st ITI 1000 finish yesterday. Pedal Power!!

As is our norm, Frank messaged, “Less than a mile!” when he spotted Ryan’s light at 11p MST.  Ryan was pumped to see Frank rocking the shirt and hat Ryan mailed to him a while  (like, multiple exclamation points pumped).  Pictures of outfit and dinner (forthcoming w/ wifi).  After a glorious night with a school all to his own, Ryan departed with the goal of Topkok (905) or Solomon (915) Cabin for the evening.  Poop Tree Cabin is 8.5 miles before Topkok, but he spent the last two years at Poop Tree Cabin and thought he'd mix it up a bit this year (plus, he thought he could prevent me from saying my made up name for the Suprize Creek Cabin incessantly. He thought wrong).  With only 42 miles to the barn (Nome), staying at either cabin should allow him to get a burger & beer at the Safety Roadhouse and finish under the new arch in daylight tomorrow!  But if you know Ryan, he wants it not a moment sooner ;-)

Pictures are of Frank & moose sammies, the four cabins (in order A-D) for Day 20’s trivia, and a little dot watching humor.

What Say You Ryan?

Day 19: Most authentic Alaskan experience to date….

1. Finding shelter in a legit igloo on the Yukon outside of Grayling (ha, that would something)

2. Making his own ruff with a trapper near Nikolai (he’d love this experience)

3. **Making moose sandwiches for the school kids in Golovin (ranked slightly higher than Joanne’s husband making muskox stew)

4. Sharing McKinley Cabin with a group of snowmobilers on their way back from a high school basketball game in White Mtn (this one happened. Ryan did note a significant decrease in day-to-day snowmobile traffic this year)

Day 20: Favorite shelter cabin (this is a tough one bc he’s obsessed w/ them all)….

1. Tripod Flats (656)

2. Old Woman (672)

3. Topkok (905)

   

4. Safety Roadhouse (927)

ITI 2025 Day 19: Koyuk (791.6) - Golovin (864)

Follow @itialaska for general race updates, itidiaries.blogspot.com for Ryan updates

TL; DR: All good in the hood 😎

Ryan’s ride (all times in AKST):

*Departed Koyuk (791.7) @6:50p, opting not to stop at the Kwik River Cabin (813)

*Arrived in Elim (836) @8:10a, departed 8:37a

*Napped at Walla Walla Cabin (845), 10:45-3:10p

*Pedaled on to Golovin (864)

Quality rest in Koyuk, coupled with “great Lights” had Ryan pedaling all night and through the morning.  While a “bustling” village, Ryan said he had little use for the Elim checkpoint (no dropbox shipped there, other needs met), opting for just a cup of coffee and quick chat with 3rd place musher Paige Drobny. He was a man of few words via inReach, but did make sure to comment that her dogs looked really good. 20 min later he was on to Walla Walla, a “really nice cabin” (first time stopping here I believe) for some quiet time.

He’ll make it to Golovin tonight, possibly White Mountain (879)–but I can’t imagine he’d pass up a night with his bestie Frank, aka the nicest man who has provided unbelievable care over the last couple of years…welcoming him into his home when the school wasn’t allowing outsiders (COVID), providing hearty meals, fellowship at the school, sending me updates when he sees his lights coming over Little McKinley Mtn miles away.  We love Frank.

Plan is to dine with Frank tonight in Golovin, certainly better than last night's Big AZ Bacon Addict 😶

Pictures are my guess for the reason he stayed later in Koyuk (after pizza rolls, needed to make room for a burger) and an earlier pic I missed (en route to Little Mtn Cabin)

What Say You Ryan?

Day 18: One thing you can’t live on the trail without….

1. Butter (more of a luxury)

2. Vaniply ointment (it’s just the best, as your unanimous opinions confirm)

3. Black Diamond headlamp (actually, prefers not to use if possible…light of the moon, baby)

4. **Coffee (I mean, y’all, did you not see the giant bag of @rubyroasters coffee in his bike rig pic?!?!)

Day 18: Most authentic Alaskan experience to date….

1. Finding shelter in a legit igloo on the Yukon outside of Grayling

2. Making his own ruff with a trapper near Nikolai

3. Making moose sandwiches for the school kids in Golovin

4. Sharing McKinley Cabin with a group of snowmobilers on their way back from a high school basketball game in White Mtn

Comment with your guess and I’ll reveal the answer tomorrow!!

ITI 2025 Day 18: Koyuk (791.6)

Follow @itialaska for general race updates, itidiaries.blogspot.com for Ryan updates

TL; DR: Sea crossing - “it terrible”; Koyuk school - “it nice”

Ryan’s ride (all times in AKST): *Arrived in Koyuk (791.7) @ 12:42am, crossing 30 miles of frozen sea with a relentless, “stiff” headwind in 14 hrs. *Next up is Elim (836), with the Kwik River Cabin (21-24 miles from Koyuk, unsure what route he will take)

Welcome home Ryan, you are again amongst the feet people!! Yesterday, Ryan did a 50k on foot, pushing his bike for the entirety of the sea ice…I was excited to tell him this was his first ultra on foot since he did the 1000 in 2022, but he ruined my fun by reminding me that he pushed his bike for 70ish miles from White Mtn. to the finish last year. Whatever.

No, it sounded like yesterday’s sea crossing wasn’t the most fun he’s ever had on the trail (or crossing the Norton Sound for that matter), the wind joining forces with the barrenness to make for a torturous 10 miles of village lights not seeming to get any closer.  His hard work was rewarded, though, with one of the most hospitable school stays of the trek.  Food, WiFi, mattresses, SHOWER, friendly & caring faces, PIZZA ROLLS.  We chatted while he ate oatmeal and drank coffee, reporting nary a thing wrong with body or bike (there was a slight concern his boots might have caused blisters, having only one pair of socks on and that much walking, but nope!). 

Lead dog teams arrive in Koyuk while Ryan re-sorted the bike, but our racers are kept out of the dog race melee.  Sounds like if he gets back on the bike in the next little bit, he may get to encounter the dogs on the trail. But first, must reup on the Libby (we/me finally figured his pin!)!

Pictures from sea crossing & Koyuk

What Say You Ryan?

Day 17: When I say Bering Sea crossing, you say…

1. “You know what would be really cool to see? A polar bear!” (if I gave him this multiple choice, he might have changed his mind)

2. ***“I’m getting closer to the finish line, so it’s well looked forward to” (it’s also nice to get out of the way because if it’s not safe to cross, race ends in Shaktoolik)

3. “Headwinds. Better have that gear tied down good” (he did lose a sleep pad once, but that was on the Yukon)

4. “Makes for the best photos!” (true, but so do a lot of other places)

Day 18: One thing you can’t live on the trail without….

1. Butter (ok to freeze, add to anything for extra yum & calories)

2. Vaniply ointment (IYKYK, but battles everything from chafing to chapped lips)

3. Black Diamond headlamp (I like to see the critters eyes at night, especially the Australian rabbits)

4. Coffee (it’s never not needed, nor welcomed)

Comment with your guess and I’ll reveal the answer tomorrow!!

ITI 2025 Day 17: Shaktoolik (747.6) - Bering Sea Crossing (775ish)

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TL; DR: Stupid wind…and sea crossings!

Ryan’s ride (all times in AKST): *Departed Shaktoolik (747.6) @ 1am *Arrived @ Little Mountain Cabin (761.6) @ 6:20a *Departed for Koyuk (791.7), crossing 30 miles of frozen sea with little/no markings, at 10:37a

When the WWW crew reached out to see if there was insight into Ryan, Julie, and Karl’s decision to leave Shaktoolik around 1am, the following was my response:

From Emily (dot watcher & InReach interpreter): I had some hypotheses... 1) they finally shook the pizza hangover, 2) the forecast called for increasing wind, and Ryan has PTSD from being holed up for an extended period of time in Little Mtn. Cabin with Asbjorn and Gavan during some insane wind last year...get while the getting is better, 3) they heard the rumor that they might still be able to beat the dogs to Nome. 

From (actual racer) Ryan: Plan was always to leave around midnight. Rest while trail firmed up.

Emily again: Sounds like the longer stop at Little Mtn. wasn’t planned, but the wind picked up & they decided to cross in the daylight.  The desire to be able to see was a moot point (not really) as the limited markings across the bay were drifted in.  Never a dull moment! I've heard from him a couple of times as he makes his way across the sea ice..."only pushing" "it terrible". I messaged back he that he's made of tough stuff and to take it one big, heavy bike boot at a time...the decision to buy the new roomier (clunkier) & warmer (heavier) boots keeps on disappointing. At least the decision to go with the -45 vs. -60 sleeping bag has paid off....

*Pictures from last year’s sea crossing & confinement in Little Mtn. Cabin, today’s Trackleaders

What Say You Ryan?

Day 16: One thing I should be better about…

1. Pre-mailing bday cards (never going to happen, in or out of AK)

2. ***Getting up n going (y’all know him so well)

3. Remembering to eat (he said about a week ago: “I’d probably be faster, but sometimes I just like to make a meal on the trail”)

4. Doing laundry (what laundry? I think there’s only one shirt)

Day 17: When I say Bering Sea crossing, you say…

1. “You know what would be really cool to see? A polar bear!”

2. “I’m getting closer to the finish line, so it’s well looked forward to”

3. “Headwinds. Better have that gear tied down good”

4. “Makes for the best photos!”

Comment with your guess and I’ll reveal the answer tomorrow!!

ITI 2025 Day 16: Unalakleet (706) - Shaktoolik (747.6)

Follow @itialaska for general race updates, itidiaries.blogspot.com for Ryan updates.

TL; DR: Powered by pizza

Ryan’s ride (all times in AKST):

*Departed Unalakleet (706) @ 12:54a (7.5hr stop)

*Foothills Cabin (730) @ 9:42a for a snack

*Arrived at Shaktoolik (747.6) @ 3:13p

Another uneventful day on the trail. Pizza, store, dropbox in Unalakleet. 

Usually he spend the night in Peace on Earth, but it sounds like it was pretty crazy being a hub for the dog race. 

Plus, a good weather forecast made him itch to get moving.  Only hiccup was four racers and a bike tourer already at Foothills Cabin (730), which is “kinda small.”  Cut it down the middle and left after a rest, but early enough to seize the day.  Weather report was accurate in terms of wind (mild, a special occasion on the coast), but undersold the temps and Ryan reported soft trails (again).  He’s in Shaktoolik now, debating waiting a bit for the trail to firm up or carry on to Little Mountain Cabin (761.2). From there it’s 30 miles across the Bering Sea to Koyuk (791.6), definitely doable in one fell swoop.

Pictures are from Peace on Earth and somewhere on the trail. And dead things.

What Say You Ryan?

Day 15: When I say Yukon River, you say…

1. ***“It’s always wider and longer than I remember”

2. “So much wildlife!” (he said it’s always desolate…and then sends a picture of _____. Bonus points if you can identify!)

3. “Fast miles whoop!” (sometimes I suppose, but also “bivvies of denial” miles)

4. “There’s gold in them hills!!” (wrong activity)

Day 16: One thing I should be better about…

1. Pre-mailing bday cards.  Everyone in the fam was born in the month he’s gone each year (btw…HAPPY BIRTHDAY Mark & Jeanette!!)

2. Getting up n going (good coffee outside can’t be rushed!)

3. Remembering to eat (there’s hangry, and then hangry after 700+ miles)

4. Doing laundry (for the most part, it really only impacts me)

Comment with your guess and I’ll reveal the answer tomorrow!!